It can be difficult to stay on top of what's best for your own health and well-being, so knowing what's good for your pet may seem a little confusing.
Keep your feline friends and canine companions healthy and happy by following these 10 pet care tips the pros want you to know.
1. Regular Exams are Vital
Just like you, your pet can get heart problems, develop arthritis, or have a toothache. The best way to prevent such problems or catch them early is to see your veterinarian every year.
Regular exams are "the single most important way to keep pets healthy," says Kara M. Burns, MS, Med, LVT, president of the Academy of Veterinary Nutrition Technicians.
Annual vet visits should touch on nutrition and weight control, says Oregon veterinarian Marla J. McGeorge, DVM, as well as cover recommended vaccinations, parasite control, dental exam, and health screenings.
2.Spay and Neuter Your Pets
Eight million to 10 million pets end up in U.S. shelters every year. Some are lost, some have been abandoned, and some are homeless.
Here's an easy way to avoid adding to that number -- spay and neuter your cats and dogs. It's a procedure that can be performed as early as six to eight weeks of age.
Spaying and neutering doesn't just cut down on the number of unwanted pets; it has other substantial benefits for your pet. Studies show it also lowers the risk of certain cancers, Burns tells WebMD, and reduces a pet's risk of getting lost by decreasing the tendency to roam.
3. Prevent Parasites
Fleas are the most common external parasite that can plague pets, and they can lead to irritated skin, hair loss, hot spots, and infection. Fleas can also introduce other parasites into your cat or dog. All it takes is for your pet to swallow one flea, and it can to end up with tapeworms, the most common internal parasite affecting dogs and cats.
Year-round prevention is key, says McGeorge, who suggests regular flea and intestinal parasite control, as well as heartworm prevention in endemic areas.
Because some parasite medications made for dogs can be fatal to cats, talk to your vet about keeping your precious pets worm-free, flea-free -- and safe.
4. Maintain a Healthy Weight
Many dogs and cats in the U.S. are overweight or obese. And just like people, obesity in pets comes with health risks that include diabetes, arthritis, and cancer.
Overfeeding is the leading cause of obesity, says Douglas, who adds that keeping our pets trim can add years to their lives.
Because pets need far fewer calories than most of us think -- as little as 185-370 a day for a small, inactive dog; just 240-350 calories daily for a 10-pound cat -- talk to your vet, who can make feeding suggestions based on your pet's age, weight, and lifestyle.
5. Get Regular Vaccinations
For optimal health, pets need regular vaccinations against common ills, such as rabies, distemper, feline leukemia, and canine hepatitis.
How often your dog or cat needs to be immunized depends on their age, lifestyle, health, and risks, says McGeorge, so talk to your vet about the vaccinations that make sense for your pet.
6. Provide an Enriched Environment
An enriched environment is another key to the long-term health and welfare of your canine and feline friends, says C.A. Tony Buffington, DVM, PhD, a veterinary nutritionist and professor at Ohio State University Veterinary Medical Center in Columbus.
Pets need mental stimulation, say the pros, which may mean daily walks for your pooch, and scratching posts, window perches, and toys for your cat. It means play time with you, which not only keeps your pet's muscles toned and boredom at bay, it also strengthens your bond with your four-footed companions.
7. ID Microchip Your Pet
Lack of identification means as few as 14% of pets ever find their way home after getting lost. Fortunately, "microchipping allows for the pet to be reunited with its family," no matter how far away it is when found, Burns says.
About the size of a rice grain, a microchip is inserted under the skin in less than a second. It needs no battery and can be scanned by a vet or an animal control officer in seconds.
Be sure to register the chip ID with the chip's maker. A current registration is the vital last step in making certain your pet can always find his way home.
8. Pets Need Dental Care, Too
Just like you, your pet can suffer from gum disease, tooth loss, and tooth pain. And just like you, regular brushing and oral cleanings help keep your pet's teeth strong and healthy.
"Dental disease is one of the most common preventable illnesses in pets," Ohio veterinarian Vanessa Douglas tells WebMD, "yet many people never even look in their pet's mouths."
It's estimated 80% of dogs and 70% cats show signs of dental disease by age three, leading to abscesses, loose teeth, and chronic pain. In addition to regular dental cleanings by your vet, "periodontal disease can be avoided by proper dental care by owners," Douglas says. Owner care includes brushing, oral rinses, and dental treats. Your vet is a good source of information about brushing techniques, oral rinses, and dental treats.
9. Never Give Pets People Medication
Medicines made for humans can kill your pet, says Georgia veterinarian Jean Sonnenfield, DVM. As a matter of fact, in 2010 the ASPCA listed human drugs in the top 10 pet toxins.
NSAIDs like ibuprofen and naproxen are the most common pet poisoning culprits, but antidepressants, decongestants, muscle relaxants, and acetaminophen are just a few of the human drugs that pose health risks to pets. Human drugs can cause kidney damage, seizures, and cardiac arrest in a dog or cat.
If you suspect your pet has consumed your medication -- or anything toxic -- call the 24-hour ASPCA Animal Poison Control Center. Also be sure to immediately check with your vet, and if it is during evening or weekend hours when your regular veterinary clinic may be closed, check for a local 24-hour emergency veterinary clinic and take your pet there for an examination. Many metropolitan areas have these clinics.
10. Proper Restraint in a Vehicle
You buckle up for safety when you're in the car, shouldn't your pet? Unrestrained pets in a car are a distraction to the driver, and can put driver and pet at risk for serious injury, "or worse," says veterinarian Douglas. To keep pets safe in transit:
Never allow pets to travel in the front seat, where they're at risk of severe injury or death if the airbag deploys.
Don't let dogs ride with their head out the window or untethered in the back of a truck bed. Both practices put them at risk of being thrown from the vehicle in the event of an accident.
To keep pets safe, confine cats to carriers, suggests Douglas, then secure the carrier with a seatbelt. For dogs, there's the option of a special harness attached to a seat belt, or a well-secured kennel.
Thanks to Pet Web MD for thsi wnoderful article!
Sunday, November 27, 2011
Tuesday, November 15, 2011
A Super Easy Peanut Butter Dog Treat Recipe
Here’s one of those easy peanut butter dog treat recipes. And they can be made in a pinch since all 5 of these ingredients are ones that are usually on hand.
Ingredients:
2 cups whole wheat flour
1 TBSP baking powder
1 cup peanut butter (smooth only, please)
1 cup milk
1/2 cup oatmeal
Directions:
Start by preheating your oven to 375 degrees and lightly greasing a baking or pizza pan.
In a medium mixing bowl, add the flour, baking powder and oatmeal. Once that’s mixed, add the peanut butter and milk. Stir it together until a dough forms.
Turn the dough out onto a lightly floured surface, knead it and then roll it out until it’s about a 1/4″ thick. Break out your cute bone-shaped cookie cutters or a pizza cutter and cut the dough into the desired size and shape.
Bake those on the lightly greased baking pan and cook for about 20 minutes or until they’re golden brown.
Once cool, let your favorite pup enjoy before storing them in an airtight jar (or resealable freezer bag).
Thanks to DogTreatRecipes.Org for this awesome recipe!
Ingredients:
2 cups whole wheat flour
1 TBSP baking powder
1 cup peanut butter (smooth only, please)
1 cup milk
1/2 cup oatmeal
Directions:
Start by preheating your oven to 375 degrees and lightly greasing a baking or pizza pan.
In a medium mixing bowl, add the flour, baking powder and oatmeal. Once that’s mixed, add the peanut butter and milk. Stir it together until a dough forms.
Turn the dough out onto a lightly floured surface, knead it and then roll it out until it’s about a 1/4″ thick. Break out your cute bone-shaped cookie cutters or a pizza cutter and cut the dough into the desired size and shape.
Bake those on the lightly greased baking pan and cook for about 20 minutes or until they’re golden brown.
Once cool, let your favorite pup enjoy before storing them in an airtight jar (or resealable freezer bag).
Thanks to DogTreatRecipes.Org for this awesome recipe!
Monday, October 31, 2011
Halloween Costumes and Dogs
Pet owners love dressing up their dogs for Halloween. Only problem is, dogs don't always love wearing costumes. But there are some tricks you can use for those pets that don't think it's a treat to wear hats, boots, masks and coats for their owners' amusement.
If a dog is used to wearing clothes, costumes may not be a problem, said veterinarian Terry Marie Curtis, a clinical behaviorist for the Department of Small Animal Clinical Services at the University of Florida College of Veterinary Medicine (http://www.vetmed.ufl.edu).
Dogs accustomed to wearing snug items designed to calm anxiety — like Thundershirts, Anxiety Wraps or Storm Defender Capes — should be able to adjust to other types of clothing, she said.
But every pet is different. "Many dogs hate things on their feet," she said. "This is true because it can alter how they perceive where they're walking."
Some dogs are used to booties, though, either because they live where the ground gets very hot or cold, or they are carried most of the time. "The smaller pocket pups are more likely to have 'dress up' in their experience because that's what mom has done since puppyhood," Curtis said.
For fussy dogs (and cats), try a starter costume consisting mostly of accessories, advised Reyna Jew, who buys dog and cat apparel, shampoo, travel products and carriers for PetSmart (www.petsmart.com).
Try angel, fairy or bat wings, a pirate or witch hat. If that's still too much, there are bows that clip in the pet's hair, necklaces and decorative collars or bandannas made of Halloween-themed fabric.
Target offers 29 costume styles for dogs, including five rider styles (a stuffed character rides on the back of the pet) designed for larger dogs and 10 partial costumes for the pet that won't tolerate a full costume, said Kristy Welker of Target Communications in Minneapolis. Pet costumes are available online (http://www.target.com/c/party-supplies-holidays-halloween-pets-costumes/-/N-5tf58) and in many of the stores.
Options include items that attach to collars, like flowers and even Saint Bernard-style rescue barrels, said Welker. These won't upset animals who don't like wearing clothes, but they'll look like costumes to human eyes.
Target also carries three styles of T-shirts and three styles of pajamas, including prisoners and skeletons.
Costumes that cover a pet's head or include eyeglasses or masks may be a challenge. You'll have to see what your dog will tolerate, but don't be surprised if a mask or hat is repeatedly shaken or pawed off.
The most popular costume at PetSmart is the bumblebee, followed by the pumpkin and dragon, Jew said. Bat wings, hot dogs and a sheriff are Target's best-sellers. Pajamas are popular because they are comfortable, Welker said. At BuyCostumes.com, a raptor, bee and a dog-riding cowboy top the list.
Few places sell full costumes just for cats but dog accessories will work. PetSmart also has 12 collars and scarves designed for and modeled by cats online.
Some pet owners want to dress like their pets or want to dress their children and pets alike. It's easy to mix and match many pet costumes with people costumes from other stores, Jew said. For example, there are Superman and Batman dog costumes. An owner can easily get a Lois Lane or Robin costume, she said.
Target offers hot dog and banana costumes for both adults and pets, Welker said.
Pet costumes are made to go on easy, Jew said, and usually fasten with Velcro.
The best-selling size costume is medium, which usually fits a 30- to 40-pound dog. "The toy breeds are second up," Jew said.
One trend that's driving demand for pet costumes is the surging number of dress-up events for pets being staged by neighborhoods, cities, shelters, rescues, magazines, websites, pet stores, charitable organizations and other groups, including photo contests, pet parades and businesses inviting pets in costume to drop by, Jew said.
Keep pets safe
As the holiday approaches, pet owners should keep a few things in mind. The American Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals warns that costumes should not limit an animal's "movement, hearing, sight or ability to breathe, bark, eat, drink or eliminate. And watch for choking hazards."
And, the ASPCA says, remember that chocolate is toxic for dogs, while the aluminum foil and cellophane in candy wrappers can cause serious problems for cats and dogs.
Dr. Justine Lee, associate director of veterinary services for the national Pet Poison Helpline in Minneapolis, said during Halloween week last year, calls about dogs that ingested chocolate increased by 209 percent over a typical week
All the activity and oddly dressed people coming and going may scare your pet, Curtis said. "I've worked with many dogs who are deathly afraid of cameras and the flash, so if their owners are doing a lot of picture taking around this time, then that could contribute to the overall fear, too," she said.
The ASPCA also suggests keeping pets away from doors when greeting trick-or-treaters and recommends against candles to light up pumpkins.
For more tips, see http://www.aspca.org/pet-care/pet-care-tips/halloween-safety-tips.aspx.
Thanks to The Seattle Times for this article!
If a dog is used to wearing clothes, costumes may not be a problem, said veterinarian Terry Marie Curtis, a clinical behaviorist for the Department of Small Animal Clinical Services at the University of Florida College of Veterinary Medicine (http://www.vetmed.ufl.edu).
Dogs accustomed to wearing snug items designed to calm anxiety — like Thundershirts, Anxiety Wraps or Storm Defender Capes — should be able to adjust to other types of clothing, she said.
But every pet is different. "Many dogs hate things on their feet," she said. "This is true because it can alter how they perceive where they're walking."
Some dogs are used to booties, though, either because they live where the ground gets very hot or cold, or they are carried most of the time. "The smaller pocket pups are more likely to have 'dress up' in their experience because that's what mom has done since puppyhood," Curtis said.
For fussy dogs (and cats), try a starter costume consisting mostly of accessories, advised Reyna Jew, who buys dog and cat apparel, shampoo, travel products and carriers for PetSmart (www.petsmart.com).
Try angel, fairy or bat wings, a pirate or witch hat. If that's still too much, there are bows that clip in the pet's hair, necklaces and decorative collars or bandannas made of Halloween-themed fabric.
Target offers 29 costume styles for dogs, including five rider styles (a stuffed character rides on the back of the pet) designed for larger dogs and 10 partial costumes for the pet that won't tolerate a full costume, said Kristy Welker of Target Communications in Minneapolis. Pet costumes are available online (http://www.target.com/c/party-supplies-holidays-halloween-pets-costumes/-/N-5tf58) and in many of the stores.
Options include items that attach to collars, like flowers and even Saint Bernard-style rescue barrels, said Welker. These won't upset animals who don't like wearing clothes, but they'll look like costumes to human eyes.
Target also carries three styles of T-shirts and three styles of pajamas, including prisoners and skeletons.
Costumes that cover a pet's head or include eyeglasses or masks may be a challenge. You'll have to see what your dog will tolerate, but don't be surprised if a mask or hat is repeatedly shaken or pawed off.
The most popular costume at PetSmart is the bumblebee, followed by the pumpkin and dragon, Jew said. Bat wings, hot dogs and a sheriff are Target's best-sellers. Pajamas are popular because they are comfortable, Welker said. At BuyCostumes.com, a raptor, bee and a dog-riding cowboy top the list.
Few places sell full costumes just for cats but dog accessories will work. PetSmart also has 12 collars and scarves designed for and modeled by cats online.
Some pet owners want to dress like their pets or want to dress their children and pets alike. It's easy to mix and match many pet costumes with people costumes from other stores, Jew said. For example, there are Superman and Batman dog costumes. An owner can easily get a Lois Lane or Robin costume, she said.
Target offers hot dog and banana costumes for both adults and pets, Welker said.
Pet costumes are made to go on easy, Jew said, and usually fasten with Velcro.
The best-selling size costume is medium, which usually fits a 30- to 40-pound dog. "The toy breeds are second up," Jew said.
One trend that's driving demand for pet costumes is the surging number of dress-up events for pets being staged by neighborhoods, cities, shelters, rescues, magazines, websites, pet stores, charitable organizations and other groups, including photo contests, pet parades and businesses inviting pets in costume to drop by, Jew said.
Keep pets safe
As the holiday approaches, pet owners should keep a few things in mind. The American Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals warns that costumes should not limit an animal's "movement, hearing, sight or ability to breathe, bark, eat, drink or eliminate. And watch for choking hazards."
And, the ASPCA says, remember that chocolate is toxic for dogs, while the aluminum foil and cellophane in candy wrappers can cause serious problems for cats and dogs.
Dr. Justine Lee, associate director of veterinary services for the national Pet Poison Helpline in Minneapolis, said during Halloween week last year, calls about dogs that ingested chocolate increased by 209 percent over a typical week
All the activity and oddly dressed people coming and going may scare your pet, Curtis said. "I've worked with many dogs who are deathly afraid of cameras and the flash, so if their owners are doing a lot of picture taking around this time, then that could contribute to the overall fear, too," she said.
The ASPCA also suggests keeping pets away from doors when greeting trick-or-treaters and recommends against candles to light up pumpkins.
For more tips, see http://www.aspca.org/pet-care/pet-care-tips/halloween-safety-tips.aspx.
Thanks to The Seattle Times for this article!
Monday, October 24, 2011
Salmon Poisoning
The salmon are running in the streams again, and while this is a very amazing (and unique) event, it can be deadly for our furry little friends...
From King 5 News
A favorite Northwest seafood could be deadly to your dog .
by NATASHA RYAN / KING 5 News
KING5.com
SEATTLE - Daisy is eager to investigate the sounds and smells of the park. Just glancing at her, you wouldn't know Daisy's still recovering, but if you look closer, the signs of her struggle to live are visible.
"How loose she is, she lost a lot of weight,” said Amy Greger. “She did not eat at all for a week, very little water.”
There were multiple trips to the vet.
"They did ultrasound, x-ray, trying to figure out what it was, still nothing conclusive," said Amy.
Until a specialist asked one key question: Had Daisy eaten any fish?
"It was like three, three-and-a-half weeks before symptoms showed up. We had salmon for dinner,” said Wiktor Greger.
"I had a little piece of raw salmon on the plate and I thought oh, I'll just give it to her. She wolfed it down, was all happy and everything was fine."
The Gregers had never heard of salmon poisoning.
"Have quite a few friends who fish and no one knew anything,” said Wiktor.
Dr. Cherie Guidry of Helping Hands Vet Clinic says most people don't know not to feed dogs raw fish.
"If left untreated, 90 percent of the cases are fatal, the dogs will die within 2-3 weeks,” she said.
After weeks of antibiotics and de-worming treatments, it’s safe to say you won't find salmon in the Greger's kitchen, but you will find their survivor.
If your dog gets a hold of raw salmon get to the vet. And remember, sometimes the symptoms take weeks to show up and there are other dangerous fish.
There's a video if you want to watch!
King 5 Video
And some information from WSU
Salmon Poisoning Disease
This information is not meant to be a substitute for veterinary care. Always follow the instructions provided by your veterinarian.
Fishing can be wonderful recreation, but sharing the catch with your dog can be an act of kindness that kills.
Salmon Poisoning Disease is a potentially fatal condition seen in dogs that eat certain types of raw fish. Salmon (salmonid fish) and other anadromous fish (fish that swim upstream to breed) can be infected with a parasite called Nanophyetus salmincola. Overall, the parasite is relatively harmless. The danger occurs when the parasite itself is infected with a rickettsial organism called Neorickettsia helminthoeca. It’s this microorganism that causes salmon poisoning.
“Salmon poisoning occurs most commonly west of the Cascade mountain range,” says Dr. Bill Foreyt, a veterinary parasitologist at Washington State University’s College of Veterinary Medicine. He adds, “Canids (dogs) are the only species susceptible to salmon poisoning. That’s why cats, raccoons and bears eat raw fish regularly with out consequence.”
Generally clinical signs appear within six days of a dog eating an infected fish.
Common symptoms of salmon poisoning include:
■vomiting
■lack of appetite
■fever
■diarrhea
■weakness
■swollen lymph nodes
■dehydration
If untreated, death usually occurs within fourteen days of eating the infected fish. Ninety percent of dogs showing symptoms die if they are not treated.
Thankfully, salmon poisoning is treatable if it’s caught in time. A key to its diagnosis is telling your veterinarian that your dog ate raw fish. If you have a dog that wanders, or raids trashcans and you are unsure of what it’s eaten; consider the possibility of salmon poisoning. Salmon poisoning can be diagnosed with a fecal sample or a needle sample of a swollen lymph node. Detecting the parasite’s eggs as they are shed in the feces confirms its presence. The rickettsial organism can be detected in a needle sample from a swollen lymph node. The combination of symptoms, and the presence of parasite eggs or the rickettsial organisms, are enough to justify treatment.
Given the severity of the condition, treatment is relatively simple. Your veterinarian will prescribe an antibiotic and a “wormer”. The antibiotic kills the rickettsial organisms that cause the illness, and the wormer kills the parasite. If the dog is dehydrated, intravenous fluid are given. Once treatment has been started, most dogs show dramatic improvement within two days.
Next time you are fishing or purchase raw salmon and you hear the familiar begging whine of your dog, ignore it. They may not understand it, but not sharing the fish is the best thing for them. This will save them from suffering salmon poisoning, and save you from a veterinary bill.
This Pet Health Topic was written by Sarah Hoggan, Washington State University, Class of 2001.
WSU Website
From King 5 News
A favorite Northwest seafood could be deadly to your dog .
by NATASHA RYAN / KING 5 News
KING5.com
SEATTLE - Daisy is eager to investigate the sounds and smells of the park. Just glancing at her, you wouldn't know Daisy's still recovering, but if you look closer, the signs of her struggle to live are visible.
"How loose she is, she lost a lot of weight,” said Amy Greger. “She did not eat at all for a week, very little water.”
There were multiple trips to the vet.
"They did ultrasound, x-ray, trying to figure out what it was, still nothing conclusive," said Amy.
Until a specialist asked one key question: Had Daisy eaten any fish?
"It was like three, three-and-a-half weeks before symptoms showed up. We had salmon for dinner,” said Wiktor Greger.
"I had a little piece of raw salmon on the plate and I thought oh, I'll just give it to her. She wolfed it down, was all happy and everything was fine."
The Gregers had never heard of salmon poisoning.
"Have quite a few friends who fish and no one knew anything,” said Wiktor.
Dr. Cherie Guidry of Helping Hands Vet Clinic says most people don't know not to feed dogs raw fish.
"If left untreated, 90 percent of the cases are fatal, the dogs will die within 2-3 weeks,” she said.
After weeks of antibiotics and de-worming treatments, it’s safe to say you won't find salmon in the Greger's kitchen, but you will find their survivor.
If your dog gets a hold of raw salmon get to the vet. And remember, sometimes the symptoms take weeks to show up and there are other dangerous fish.
There's a video if you want to watch!
King 5 Video
And some information from WSU
Salmon Poisoning Disease
This information is not meant to be a substitute for veterinary care. Always follow the instructions provided by your veterinarian.
Fishing can be wonderful recreation, but sharing the catch with your dog can be an act of kindness that kills.
Salmon Poisoning Disease is a potentially fatal condition seen in dogs that eat certain types of raw fish. Salmon (salmonid fish) and other anadromous fish (fish that swim upstream to breed) can be infected with a parasite called Nanophyetus salmincola. Overall, the parasite is relatively harmless. The danger occurs when the parasite itself is infected with a rickettsial organism called Neorickettsia helminthoeca. It’s this microorganism that causes salmon poisoning.
“Salmon poisoning occurs most commonly west of the Cascade mountain range,” says Dr. Bill Foreyt, a veterinary parasitologist at Washington State University’s College of Veterinary Medicine. He adds, “Canids (dogs) are the only species susceptible to salmon poisoning. That’s why cats, raccoons and bears eat raw fish regularly with out consequence.”
Generally clinical signs appear within six days of a dog eating an infected fish.
Common symptoms of salmon poisoning include:
■vomiting
■lack of appetite
■fever
■diarrhea
■weakness
■swollen lymph nodes
■dehydration
If untreated, death usually occurs within fourteen days of eating the infected fish. Ninety percent of dogs showing symptoms die if they are not treated.
Thankfully, salmon poisoning is treatable if it’s caught in time. A key to its diagnosis is telling your veterinarian that your dog ate raw fish. If you have a dog that wanders, or raids trashcans and you are unsure of what it’s eaten; consider the possibility of salmon poisoning. Salmon poisoning can be diagnosed with a fecal sample or a needle sample of a swollen lymph node. Detecting the parasite’s eggs as they are shed in the feces confirms its presence. The rickettsial organism can be detected in a needle sample from a swollen lymph node. The combination of symptoms, and the presence of parasite eggs or the rickettsial organisms, are enough to justify treatment.
Given the severity of the condition, treatment is relatively simple. Your veterinarian will prescribe an antibiotic and a “wormer”. The antibiotic kills the rickettsial organisms that cause the illness, and the wormer kills the parasite. If the dog is dehydrated, intravenous fluid are given. Once treatment has been started, most dogs show dramatic improvement within two days.
Next time you are fishing or purchase raw salmon and you hear the familiar begging whine of your dog, ignore it. They may not understand it, but not sharing the fish is the best thing for them. This will save them from suffering salmon poisoning, and save you from a veterinary bill.
This Pet Health Topic was written by Sarah Hoggan, Washington State University, Class of 2001.
WSU Website
Thursday, October 6, 2011
Dog Barking 101
Let’s face it – dogs bark. Some do for good reason and some do for apparently little or no reason and some do a little of both. Of course there are also certain breeds that are more prone to yapping than others. The problem is not always the barking but the need for them to be quiet at certain times or when asked.
Dogs bark for a variety of reasons. They may be giving a warning to another animal, sounding an alarm, playing or instigating play, joining in the excitement of the moment, demanding a reaction (even using it as a command), doing it on command, out of fear and the need to drive another animal or object away, and sometimes they bark just for the sake of barking. On occasion it can be a combination of any of these. With puppies it can be insecurity after leaving the pack.
We don’t necessarily want our dogs to stop barking though, especially when it is an alarm alerting us to danger, or perhaps warding off an intruder. But we do want them to stop when we ask them to, and we don’t want them to bark if there is no reason. Some will bark at the slightest noise, disturbance or movement. Often, although barking could be in the breed’s instinct, the owner has unknowingly reinforced the behavior. If we shout at the dog that is barking he may think we are joining in. If we tell him gently to be quiet or give him affection, he may mistakenly think we like it and sees this calm voice as praise for barking.
With all of these different forms of barking there are a variety of approaches we can take to ensure the barking is for the right reason and can be stopped when the reason is no longer there. Much of this will come from the confidence the owner shows to his dog in being able to handle different situations. To gain this confidence the owner has to get to know his dog and the situations that create the barking. With this understanding, an owner can demonstrate calm, confident leadership and take control in the right way. The dog responds because he can trust the leader has taken charge. From the very beginning of our dog/owner partnership, we should be building a foundation that allows such trust and confidence. Remember that a dog’s barking is one way he communicates to us, so we do not wish to stop it but we do wish to control it as required. Learning to read your dog’s signals and means of communicating is incredibly important to your overall relationship.
To stop barking we can do a variety of actions. One way is through closing his mouth. If you have a dog that will bark and ‘sport’ at people or other animals a head halter, such as a Gentle Leader that enables you to close his mouth and guide him into an acceptable behavior is a big advantage. Introduce the halter so your dog accepts it willingly and, when an unwanted bark happens, lift the leash so the dog’s mouth closes and he is guided into a sit. Now move again and change your direction creating attention to you as you move elsewhere. So, we stop the bark, we gain attention and we redirect to an acceptable behavior in one simple step. Another way to keep the mouth closed is to encourage your dog to bring a “present” to a guest or someone in your home, or to simply to encourage him to enjoy carrying objects. Dogs that enjoy retrieving will often pick up a toy and carry it around just to show their pleasure. Naturally they cannot bark when they are holding a toy. But be careful not to give the toy when barking is in progress or they could mistake the toy as a reward for barking.
Another approach that can work is to teach your dog to bark on command, or “speak,” and then command him to be quiet. If you use treats or even verbal praise – do wait a few seconds after he has finished barking before rewarding him. What you don’t want him to think is that he is being rewarded for barking when really he is being rewarded for being quiet. To get him to bark initially you can have someone ring your doorbell or you can encourage him to bark by “barking” yourself. Have him on a leash during the exercise so that you can distract and stop the barking with a light pop of the leash. To make the response even better teach your dog that he can bark at the doorbell but then must be quiet and go to a place near the door where he can watch who is at the door and allow them to come in. This can give a very effective security touch to a home. Dog barks, owners says “Quiet,” and he stops barking, showing he is under control. When the door is opened he is sat watching and waiting for anything that could be a threat. One word - “Speak” - has him barking again. So by teaching the commands – “Speak,” “Quiet,” and “Place,” – you have a dog that is both under control, yet ready to give a warning or even threaten if required.
With some dogs it does require an interrupter or distraction to take their mind off of the stimulus to bark. In other words, there has to be something that breaks the concentration on the barking. In some cases the intensity is too high for a verbal command to cut through the behavior. The interrupter in that case may be another noise, such as using a tool that emits a high frequency sound when the dog barks. This is not a pleasant sound to the dog and interrupts his barking. A beanbag, a piece of chain and even a can with pebbles or coins in it, can provide the interruption too. It works like this – the dog barks and this loud object lands on the floor in front of him. You act as though it came from “Heaven.” Now he thinks every time he barks for no reason or if he continues unnecessarily, something falls from the sky.
Barking does not always require a big interrupter, however. You can use everyday objects. If your dog barks near to you, slam the cupboard door or a drawer, so the noise distracts or startles him. Make nothing of this, and carry on as normal. This can work especially well when a dog barks simply to be let out of a crate. You don’t want to scare the dog, just quickly alter his state of mind and change the focus. He should not see you launch the object or make the noise. He has to think that the unwanted barking creates the occurrence. Practice this while you are watching TV, working in the kitchen or whatever you’re doing – the dog should not relate it to you but to the nuisance barking. An important part of this is that if you do drop or throw an object it should not hit the dog, but land at his feet. You should also leave it there for a while so he does not relate it to you. Remember though that you have to be able to understand and translate the different barks. One of his barks may be – I need to go to the bathroom. So learn to understand the tone of the bark or noise he makes.
Of course another less preferable way is to ignore the barking and wait for it to go away. In a crate or enclosed area this may work (particularly with a puppy who is learning to settle) but if the dog is outside or in a large area then the barking itself can be self-rewarding. In many instances there are multiple stimuli occurring which will encourage the barking. In my opinion, dogs should never be left outside unsupervised or unaccompanied. Go out with your dog and do not allow him to run the fence, race down the hedgerow chasing the cars, or barking at the person walking by. Show your control and confidence in handling these situations and be the leader of your pack. Have him on a leash or a long line so that you can reinforce your commands and maintain control without shouting or becoming agitated.
A puppy barking in his crate may stop if covered with a cloth sheet so he is not stimulated to bark by what he sees. With a cover over it, the crate also feels more like a den and hence more secure. Some pups will be quiet if allowed to sleep in their crate next to the owners’ bed, or with a belonging that smells of the owner or their siblings. When your pup is in the crate do get to know the sounds he makes and unless it is an emergency for the bathroom do not go and open the crate or let the pup out when he is barking. If you do he will learn to bark demanding to be let out and in this way tell you what to do. Sometimes a squirt bottle of water can be used to direct a spray at a pup that barks in the crate but I have seen dogs that enjoy this too and make a game out of it. Plus, it can make quite a mess.
And finally there are bark collars that automatically set off an interruptor when the dog wearing it barks. Some emit a noise, some a blast of air or citronella and some use an electric stimulation between two points on the collar that limit the feeling to that area. They can all work. My experience has been that the electronic one is the most successful and most important only the dog wearing it feels the interrupter. The citronella spray collar and the noise collar can be triggered if other dogs close by are barking. With any form of bark collar, however, I would recommend you seek expert advice before using one.
I mentioned the importance of your relationship and confidence not only in your own ability to handle situations but also your dog’s confidence in you. This comes through exercise, training, spending time together, setting limits and boundaries and showing appreciation for behaviors that are pleasing. Controlled walks, games such as retrieving, and learning to be patient by simply sitting or laying down by your side or relaxing in his crate will create a companion that sees no need to bark without a good reason. In this way you build a foundation of trust and confidence that lets your dog know when he can and should bark and also when he can be quiet.
Thanks to Cesar Milan for this article!
Dogs bark for a variety of reasons. They may be giving a warning to another animal, sounding an alarm, playing or instigating play, joining in the excitement of the moment, demanding a reaction (even using it as a command), doing it on command, out of fear and the need to drive another animal or object away, and sometimes they bark just for the sake of barking. On occasion it can be a combination of any of these. With puppies it can be insecurity after leaving the pack.
We don’t necessarily want our dogs to stop barking though, especially when it is an alarm alerting us to danger, or perhaps warding off an intruder. But we do want them to stop when we ask them to, and we don’t want them to bark if there is no reason. Some will bark at the slightest noise, disturbance or movement. Often, although barking could be in the breed’s instinct, the owner has unknowingly reinforced the behavior. If we shout at the dog that is barking he may think we are joining in. If we tell him gently to be quiet or give him affection, he may mistakenly think we like it and sees this calm voice as praise for barking.
With all of these different forms of barking there are a variety of approaches we can take to ensure the barking is for the right reason and can be stopped when the reason is no longer there. Much of this will come from the confidence the owner shows to his dog in being able to handle different situations. To gain this confidence the owner has to get to know his dog and the situations that create the barking. With this understanding, an owner can demonstrate calm, confident leadership and take control in the right way. The dog responds because he can trust the leader has taken charge. From the very beginning of our dog/owner partnership, we should be building a foundation that allows such trust and confidence. Remember that a dog’s barking is one way he communicates to us, so we do not wish to stop it but we do wish to control it as required. Learning to read your dog’s signals and means of communicating is incredibly important to your overall relationship.
To stop barking we can do a variety of actions. One way is through closing his mouth. If you have a dog that will bark and ‘sport’ at people or other animals a head halter, such as a Gentle Leader that enables you to close his mouth and guide him into an acceptable behavior is a big advantage. Introduce the halter so your dog accepts it willingly and, when an unwanted bark happens, lift the leash so the dog’s mouth closes and he is guided into a sit. Now move again and change your direction creating attention to you as you move elsewhere. So, we stop the bark, we gain attention and we redirect to an acceptable behavior in one simple step. Another way to keep the mouth closed is to encourage your dog to bring a “present” to a guest or someone in your home, or to simply to encourage him to enjoy carrying objects. Dogs that enjoy retrieving will often pick up a toy and carry it around just to show their pleasure. Naturally they cannot bark when they are holding a toy. But be careful not to give the toy when barking is in progress or they could mistake the toy as a reward for barking.
Another approach that can work is to teach your dog to bark on command, or “speak,” and then command him to be quiet. If you use treats or even verbal praise – do wait a few seconds after he has finished barking before rewarding him. What you don’t want him to think is that he is being rewarded for barking when really he is being rewarded for being quiet. To get him to bark initially you can have someone ring your doorbell or you can encourage him to bark by “barking” yourself. Have him on a leash during the exercise so that you can distract and stop the barking with a light pop of the leash. To make the response even better teach your dog that he can bark at the doorbell but then must be quiet and go to a place near the door where he can watch who is at the door and allow them to come in. This can give a very effective security touch to a home. Dog barks, owners says “Quiet,” and he stops barking, showing he is under control. When the door is opened he is sat watching and waiting for anything that could be a threat. One word - “Speak” - has him barking again. So by teaching the commands – “Speak,” “Quiet,” and “Place,” – you have a dog that is both under control, yet ready to give a warning or even threaten if required.
With some dogs it does require an interrupter or distraction to take their mind off of the stimulus to bark. In other words, there has to be something that breaks the concentration on the barking. In some cases the intensity is too high for a verbal command to cut through the behavior. The interrupter in that case may be another noise, such as using a tool that emits a high frequency sound when the dog barks. This is not a pleasant sound to the dog and interrupts his barking. A beanbag, a piece of chain and even a can with pebbles or coins in it, can provide the interruption too. It works like this – the dog barks and this loud object lands on the floor in front of him. You act as though it came from “Heaven.” Now he thinks every time he barks for no reason or if he continues unnecessarily, something falls from the sky.
Barking does not always require a big interrupter, however. You can use everyday objects. If your dog barks near to you, slam the cupboard door or a drawer, so the noise distracts or startles him. Make nothing of this, and carry on as normal. This can work especially well when a dog barks simply to be let out of a crate. You don’t want to scare the dog, just quickly alter his state of mind and change the focus. He should not see you launch the object or make the noise. He has to think that the unwanted barking creates the occurrence. Practice this while you are watching TV, working in the kitchen or whatever you’re doing – the dog should not relate it to you but to the nuisance barking. An important part of this is that if you do drop or throw an object it should not hit the dog, but land at his feet. You should also leave it there for a while so he does not relate it to you. Remember though that you have to be able to understand and translate the different barks. One of his barks may be – I need to go to the bathroom. So learn to understand the tone of the bark or noise he makes.
Of course another less preferable way is to ignore the barking and wait for it to go away. In a crate or enclosed area this may work (particularly with a puppy who is learning to settle) but if the dog is outside or in a large area then the barking itself can be self-rewarding. In many instances there are multiple stimuli occurring which will encourage the barking. In my opinion, dogs should never be left outside unsupervised or unaccompanied. Go out with your dog and do not allow him to run the fence, race down the hedgerow chasing the cars, or barking at the person walking by. Show your control and confidence in handling these situations and be the leader of your pack. Have him on a leash or a long line so that you can reinforce your commands and maintain control without shouting or becoming agitated.
A puppy barking in his crate may stop if covered with a cloth sheet so he is not stimulated to bark by what he sees. With a cover over it, the crate also feels more like a den and hence more secure. Some pups will be quiet if allowed to sleep in their crate next to the owners’ bed, or with a belonging that smells of the owner or their siblings. When your pup is in the crate do get to know the sounds he makes and unless it is an emergency for the bathroom do not go and open the crate or let the pup out when he is barking. If you do he will learn to bark demanding to be let out and in this way tell you what to do. Sometimes a squirt bottle of water can be used to direct a spray at a pup that barks in the crate but I have seen dogs that enjoy this too and make a game out of it. Plus, it can make quite a mess.
And finally there are bark collars that automatically set off an interruptor when the dog wearing it barks. Some emit a noise, some a blast of air or citronella and some use an electric stimulation between two points on the collar that limit the feeling to that area. They can all work. My experience has been that the electronic one is the most successful and most important only the dog wearing it feels the interrupter. The citronella spray collar and the noise collar can be triggered if other dogs close by are barking. With any form of bark collar, however, I would recommend you seek expert advice before using one.
I mentioned the importance of your relationship and confidence not only in your own ability to handle situations but also your dog’s confidence in you. This comes through exercise, training, spending time together, setting limits and boundaries and showing appreciation for behaviors that are pleasing. Controlled walks, games such as retrieving, and learning to be patient by simply sitting or laying down by your side or relaxing in his crate will create a companion that sees no need to bark without a good reason. In this way you build a foundation of trust and confidence that lets your dog know when he can and should bark and also when he can be quiet.
Thanks to Cesar Milan for this article!
Thursday, September 29, 2011
Healthy Teeth, Healthy Dog
Just like you, your dog can get cavities, plaque, tartar and gum disease. The bacteria in your dog’s mouth that can cause these conditions can also spread to other organs such as your dog’s kidneys or heart. Unfortunately, chew toys, bones, and kibble are not sufficient teeth cleaners to prevent the development of dental disease. Brushing your dog’s teeth, ideally once a day but at a minimum three times a week, is the only way to keep his teeth healthy and help promote your dog’s overall wellness.
Before starting your dog on a tooth-care regime, you first need to make sure that your dog’s teeth are not already covered with tartar. Once tartar has accumulated on your dog’s teeth, brushing alone will not remove it. In addition, brushing tartar-covered teeth can irritate your dog’s gums and teeth which are already likely sensitive and sore from the tartar. If your dog has tartar (yellow, brown or grey material on the teeth) or you suspect he has another dental or gum disease – signs include receding or swollen gums, broken teeth, or strongly odorous breath – make an appointment with your vet before you begin brushing his teeth. Among other treatments, your veterinarian might recommend a professional teeth cleaning and check-up for dental disease. Because a thorough cleaning can be a bit painful, this procedure is almost always done under anesthesia.
The Right Tools
Before you begin, you will need the proper tools: a toothbrush and dog toothpaste. They make toothbrushes for dogs – even electric ones – but you can just buy a regular toothbrush as long as it soft-bristled. Toothbrush head size depends on the size of your dog’s teeth. Also available are little caps that fit over your index finger and have soft bristles on one side so that your finger becomes the brush. For toothpaste, you should use dog toothpaste. Never ever use human toothpaste on your dog. Human toothpaste is not meant to be ingested, but dog toothpaste is safe for your dog to ingest in small quantities as will often happen when you brush your dog's teeth.
Preparing Your Dog
Now that you have your toothbrush and toothpaste, it is time to get your dog comfortable with the idea of tooth brushing. You will be most likely to keep up with teeth cleaning if it is a reasonably pleasant experience for you and your dog. So, take some time – a few days or a few weeks – to make your dog comfortable with the process.
First, get you dog used to the idea of having his teeth touched. Gently run your finger over his gums and praise him lavishly when you are done. After your dog has grown accustomed to this, start using the toothbrush without any toothpaste. Let your dog sniff the toothbrush and then gently put it in his mouth. You don’t need to brush at this point, but run the toothbrush lightly over his teeth. Your dog might try to chew the brush when it is in his mouth, and that’s fine. Again, keep the experience friendly and low key, and praise your dog often. After several times, your dog will be used to the idea of this “strange” object in his mouth. Next, put a tiny amount of toothpaste on your finger and let your dog lick it. Since most dog toothpastes are designed to be palatable to dogs, your dog most likely will enjoy this.
Brushing The Teeth
Now you ready to put it all together and brush your dog’s teeth. Begin at the back and work forward using a soft circular motion rather than a back and forth motion. Concentrate on the teeth themselves and the gumline. Although dogs have 42 teeth, it's the upper canines – the “fangs” – and the premolars – the back teeth - that accumulate the most tartar, so pay special attention to these areas.
Thanks to Dogged Health for this article!
Before starting your dog on a tooth-care regime, you first need to make sure that your dog’s teeth are not already covered with tartar. Once tartar has accumulated on your dog’s teeth, brushing alone will not remove it. In addition, brushing tartar-covered teeth can irritate your dog’s gums and teeth which are already likely sensitive and sore from the tartar. If your dog has tartar (yellow, brown or grey material on the teeth) or you suspect he has another dental or gum disease – signs include receding or swollen gums, broken teeth, or strongly odorous breath – make an appointment with your vet before you begin brushing his teeth. Among other treatments, your veterinarian might recommend a professional teeth cleaning and check-up for dental disease. Because a thorough cleaning can be a bit painful, this procedure is almost always done under anesthesia.
The Right Tools
Before you begin, you will need the proper tools: a toothbrush and dog toothpaste. They make toothbrushes for dogs – even electric ones – but you can just buy a regular toothbrush as long as it soft-bristled. Toothbrush head size depends on the size of your dog’s teeth. Also available are little caps that fit over your index finger and have soft bristles on one side so that your finger becomes the brush. For toothpaste, you should use dog toothpaste. Never ever use human toothpaste on your dog. Human toothpaste is not meant to be ingested, but dog toothpaste is safe for your dog to ingest in small quantities as will often happen when you brush your dog's teeth.
Preparing Your Dog
Now that you have your toothbrush and toothpaste, it is time to get your dog comfortable with the idea of tooth brushing. You will be most likely to keep up with teeth cleaning if it is a reasonably pleasant experience for you and your dog. So, take some time – a few days or a few weeks – to make your dog comfortable with the process.
First, get you dog used to the idea of having his teeth touched. Gently run your finger over his gums and praise him lavishly when you are done. After your dog has grown accustomed to this, start using the toothbrush without any toothpaste. Let your dog sniff the toothbrush and then gently put it in his mouth. You don’t need to brush at this point, but run the toothbrush lightly over his teeth. Your dog might try to chew the brush when it is in his mouth, and that’s fine. Again, keep the experience friendly and low key, and praise your dog often. After several times, your dog will be used to the idea of this “strange” object in his mouth. Next, put a tiny amount of toothpaste on your finger and let your dog lick it. Since most dog toothpastes are designed to be palatable to dogs, your dog most likely will enjoy this.
Brushing The Teeth
Now you ready to put it all together and brush your dog’s teeth. Begin at the back and work forward using a soft circular motion rather than a back and forth motion. Concentrate on the teeth themselves and the gumline. Although dogs have 42 teeth, it's the upper canines – the “fangs” – and the premolars – the back teeth - that accumulate the most tartar, so pay special attention to these areas.
Thanks to Dogged Health for this article!
Wednesday, September 21, 2011
Skin Diseases in Dogs
BACTERIAL SKIN INFECTIONS (PYODERMAS)
Causes
- Staphylococci (‘Staph bacteria’) are the most common organisms found in bacterial skin diseases (pyoderma's) in dogs. Fortunately, these bacteria (S. intermedius) are not contagious to humans or other pets.
Signs
- Commonly itchy, yellow pustules are often observed early in the disease, and the dog’s skin can be reddened and ulcerated. Dry, crusted areas appear as the condition advances, along with loss of hair in the affected areas (lesions) and an odour.
All areas of a dog’s body may be involved, but most cases are confined to the trunk. The chin is one area commonly affected. Called chin acne, this condition is actually a deep bacterial infection. Obese dogs and dogs of the pug-nosed breeds are frequently affected by pyoderma in the skin folds on their face, lips and vulva.
Other areas where pyoderma may occur include between the toes and on the calluses of the elbows that mostly affects the abdominal area in young puppies.
Diagnosis
- This is usually made from the case history and appearance and location of the lesions. In some cases, it may be necessary to culture the skin (grow the bacteria) and conduct sensitivity tests to determine which antibiotic will be effective in treatment. Most bacterial skin infections in dogs are secondary to another disease such as parasitism, allergies, endocrine (hormonal) disorders or abnormalities in the immune system. Therefore, in recurrent cases, it is important to search for underlying causes. It may be necessary to do blood tests, allergy tests or skin biopsies to achieve a complete diagnosis.
Treatment
- Initial treatments may entail removal of the hair in and around the lesions, washing of the whole dog with antibiotic shampoos such as benzoyl peroxide, careful drying and the application of an antibiotic ointment to local lesions, in most cases, antibiotics will also be administered orally for 3-4 weeks. Bandages or a protective collar which prevents the dog from mutilating the lesions may be applied.
Some pyoderma involving skin folds can require corrective surgery. In recurrent cases where testing reveals no definable underlying cause, special staphylococcal vaccines as an alternative to long-term antibiotic treatment can be tried.
It may be necessary to continue treatments such as antiseptic shampooing, antibiotic ointment applications and giving antibiotics orally at home. While most cases respond to treatment, recurrences of pyoderma are common, particularly if treatment recommendations and follow-up visits to your veterinarian are neglected. Glucocorticoid steroids cannot be administered.
Fungal Skin Infections (Ringworm)
Cause
- The fungal skin infections of dogs are caused primarily be two species of fungi: Microsporum and Trichophyton. The skin diseases resulting from these fungi are commonly called ‘ringworm.’
Signs
- Ringworm is seen most commonly in young dogs. The fungi live in dead skin tissues, hairs and nails. Hair loss, usually in circular patches, may appear. If infected, the center of the patches may have a dry, crusty appearance. The head and legs are most commonly affected by ringworm, although the disease may spread over other parts of the dog’s body if not treated. Dogs may scratch the lesions.
Diagnosis
- The appearance of the lesions, the history of their development and the age of the dog are all helpful in diagnosing ringworm. A Wood’s Lamp Test (ultraviolet light) can be used to help diagnose the Microsporum species only. A definite diagnosis can be obtained through a fungal culture -- grow the fungi found on the affected hairs.
Treatment
- The hair around the lesions is clipped, and special fungicidal shampoos or rinses are used for bathing the dog. Topical lime sulfur and mandatory systemics should be administered.
Public Health Aspects of Ringworm - Ringworm is contagious to humans, particularly to children and to other household pets. Infected dogs should be kept away from children and other dogs and cats until the infection is cures -- which can be as long as 2-3 months or more after the treatment begins. Adults should be careful to wash their hands thoroughly after handling an infected dog. If treated early, ringworm is readily controlled in humans. Other household pets should also be examined for ringworm.
Allergic Skin Diseases
Allergies in dogs are common. Signs such as itchy skin, nasal and eye discharges and sneezing, and/or digestive upsets and/or skin lesions may indicate an allergy is present. Many skin diseases seen in dogs are caused by an allergy.
Causes
- An allergy is a hypersensitivity reaction to allergy-causing substances known as ‘allergens’ or ‘antigens.’ Dogs (like people) can develop allergies at any age, and the signs can appear quite suddenly.
The most common allergy dogs develop is the flea saliva. The presence of a single flea on these allergic dogs causes intense itching. These allergies are seasonal in climate zones where fleas are eliminated by the cold in winter months -- and a year-round problem in warmer climates.
Atopy (atopic dermatitis, allergic inhalant dermatitis) is a pruritic (itchy) skin disease dogs develop in response to inhaled particles such as house dust, molds and pollens. This common form of allergy usually starts at a relatively young age. Rarely, dogs can be allergic to chemicals contained in soaps, waxes, carpets and flea collars. This type of hypersensitivity is known as a ‘contact allergy.’ Also, some dogs are allergic to insect bites and stings. Food allergies usually case diarrhea and/or skin lesions.
Signs
- Itching is the primary sign of allergic skin diseases in dogs. The affected skin may appear normal, or red and moist in patches called ‘hot spots.’ Pus and dried crusts are apparent if a bacterial infection is also present. The dog tends to constantly scratch and lick affected areas. Initially, flea allergies are most evident over the dog’s back and near the tail. A dog’s face, feet, chest, and abdomen are more often affected by pollen and dust-type allergies. Contact allergies are seen mostly on the hairless areas of the abdomen and on the bottoms of the feet.
Diagnosis
- The dog’s case history helps with the diagnosis. The intense itching and location of the lesions are also helpful in diagnosing the type of allergy present. Response to treatment (flea control) is often used as a method of diagnosis of flea allergy. Trials of special hypoallergenic diets are used to diagnose food allergy. Allergy testing is used to help choose immunotherapy. Blood tests are also available to diagnose allergies, but their use is more controversial. Ask your veterinarian for his or her current recommendations.
Treatment
- Allergies can be controlled in most cases, with few ‘cured.’ Antihistamines and corticosteroids may be used by your veterinarian to give your dog relief from the intense itching. In most cases this will stop the self-mutilation. The owner will be instructed to give corticosteroid tablets in decreasing dosages for a few months. Corticosteroids are potent drugs and should not be used carelessly or for long periods of time. The main objective in controlling flea allergies in dogs is to kill the fleas on the dog and in the dog’s environment.
Another approach to allergy control is hyposensitization (immunotherapy). In this procedure, a correct diagnosis by intradermal or blood testing is necessary. The dog is then given injections of small but increasing doses of the allergy-causing substance at varying intervals for up to 12 months. Lifelong response may take up to 12 months.
Parasitic Skin Diseases
Cause
- Fleas are the most common parasitic skin disease found in dogs. Mange is another type of skin disease which is caused by mites. There are two severe types of mange: sarcoptic mange and demodectic mange.
- Ear mites, lice, and ticks are other parasites that affect dogs. Their presence irritates the dog, leading to self-mutilation.
Signs
- Sarcoptic mange causes intense itching, loss of hair and crusting of the skin. A dog’s ears, front legs, chest and abdomen are most often affected by sarcoptic mange.
- Demodectic mange can cause itching. The skin is reddened and scaly, and hair loss occurs in round patches resembling ‘ringworm.’ The face and front legs are most commonly affected, although some cases may be generalized. Generalized demodectic mange is often a sign of underlying internal disease or a hereditary problem.
- Ear mites cause severe irritation in the ears. Often, an affected dog will scratch the hair off the back of its ears. Ticks, lice and fleas may transmit other diseases, in addition to causing irritation.
Diagnosis
- Mange is often suspected on the basis of the case history and the appearance and location of the lesions. A skin scraping test is always performed to aid in identifying parasites. Ear mites, which are barely visible to the naked eye, appear as small white objects. The black debris commonly seen in the ears of dogs with ear mites is a combination of dried blood, normal ear wax and discharges from inflammation. Lice, fleas and ticks can also be seen by close examination of the dog’s skin.
Treatment
- Mange is treated by clipping the affected areas and washing them with an antiseptic. Antimite dips are often necessary and may be used weekly or biweekly for several months. Shampoos can be sued before each dip. The dog’s eyes should be protected with mineral oil or eye ointment and the ears plugged with cotton before dipping. Most cases of mange respond well to this treatment. Antibiotics can be administered in cases of mange where infection may be present.
Ear mites can be readily treated Initially, your veterinarian may recommend a thorough cleaning of the dog’s ears while the animal is sedated. This treatment can be followed up with home treatments using special solutions or ointments to kill the mites and prevent infections in addition, insecticidal dips, sprays, powders or shampoos are often used.
Lice, ticks and fleas must be killed on the dog and in the dog’s environment with insecticides. Dips, shampoos, flea collars, sprays, powders, foams and foggers containing insecticides are available from your veterinarian to help control these parasites.
Hormonal Skin Diseases
Skin diseases caused by hormonal abnormalities in dogs are difficult to diagnose. The thyroid gland, adrenal glands, pituitary gland, testicles and ovaries all produce hormones. If excessive (‘hyper’) or deficient (‘hypo’), these hormones produce changes in the skin and hair coat. Most hormonal problems that affect the skin produce hair loss that is evenly distributed on each side of the dog’s body. The skin may be thicker or thinner than normal, and there may be changes in the color of the skin or hair coat. These diseases usually are not itchy.
When any of the hormone-producing glands malfunction, they affect other body functions besides the skin. Hormonal skin diseases in dogs can be much more serious than a ‘skin problem.’
Some causes of hormonal skin disease, such as hypothyroidism and adrenal gland problems, can be diagnosed by special blood tests and effectively treated. Others may be more difficult to diagnose and treat. Skin changes related to the sex hormones can be successfully treated with surgical neutering, if this has not been performed previously.
Condition : Atopy (Allergic Inhalant Dermatitis)
Description : Allergic reaction by the animal to something it inhales such as pollen, house dust mites and mould
Symptoms : Licking of feet, inflamed ears, itching, redness, sometimes development of infection or hot spots
Diagnosis : Intradermal or serologic (blood) testing for allergies
Treatment : Reduce exposure to allergen (what the pet is allergic to), shampoos, fatty acid supplements, steroids, antihistamines, immunotherapy
Condition : Food Allergies
Description : Allergic reaction to something in the diet
Symptoms : Licking of feet, inflamed ears, itching, redness, sometimes development of infection or hot spots
Diagnosis : Food elimination trials
Treatment : Change in diet
Condition : Allergic and Irritant (Contact Dermatitis)
Description : Reaction of the pet's skin to something it had contact with such as wool or plastics
Symptoms : Red skin and small bumps or blisters on the areas of skin that are sparsely haired and directly exposed to the offending substance, itching
Diagnosis : Patch test, exclusion trials
Treatment : Restrict exposure to the allergen or contact irritant in the pet's environment, steroids, antihistamines
Condition : Flea Allergy Dermatitis (Flea Bite Hypersensitivity)
Description : Severe reaction by the animal to the saliva of the flea
Symptoms : Intense itching, redness, hair loss; sometimes development of infection or hot spots
Diagnosis : Presence of fleas; reaction to intradermal testing
Treatment : Flea Control in the environment and on the pet; steroids and antihistamines for the itching
Condition : Sarcoptic Mange
Description : Infection with the Sarcoptes mite
Symptoms : Intense itching and self-trauma
Diagnosis : Skin scraping and microscopic examination - the mite is often very difficult to find
Treatment : Amitraz (Mitaban) dips (off-label use*); ivermectin (off-label use*)
Condition : Demodectic Mange in Dogs (Red Mange)
Description : Infection with the Demodex mite - occurs when the immune system is deficient
Symptoms : Hair loss, scaliness, redness, pustules, ulcers, sometimes itching
Diagnosis : Skin scraping and microscopic examination
NO Steroids!
Treatment : Amitraz (Mitaban) dips
Condition : Cheyletiella (Rabbit Fur Mite) Mange
Description : Infection with the Cheyletiella mite
Symptoms : Itching, scaliness
Diagnosis : Skin scraping and microscopic examination - the mite is often very difficult to find
Treatment : Permethrin (Dogs ONLY) or Pyrethrin
Condition : Ringworm
Description : Infection with several types of fungus
Symptoms : Hair loss, scaliness, crusty areas, some itching
Diagnosis : Culture
Treatment : Miconazole, lime sulfur dips; oral griseofulvin or itraconazole
Condition : Yeast Infection
Description : Infection with, most commonly, Malassezia; usually follows some other underlying disease
Symptoms : Itching, redness, sometimes oiliness
Diagnosis : Skin scraping/smear and microscopic examination, culture
Treatment : Treat underlying disease; oral ketoconazole; miconazole shampoos
Condition : Hot Spots: Acute Moist Dermatitis
Description : Result from allergies, flea bites, mange, anal gland disease, poor grooming, ear infections, plant awns or burs, arthritis
Symptoms : Hair loss; red, moist, oozing skin; constant licking or scratching
Diagnosis : Physical exam and history
Treatment : Treat underlying condition; clean area; apply Domeboro solution; topical and/or oral antibiotics and steroids
Condition : Cutaneous Lymphoma
Description : Rare type of skin cancer
Symptoms : Itching, ulcers, nodules, redness
Diagnosis : Biopsy
Treatment : Usually does not respond to treatment
Condition : Lice
Description : Infection with several species of lice
Symptoms : Variable; itching, hair loss, crusts, rough hair coat
Diagnosis : Finding lice or nits on skin or hair
Treatment : Permethrin (Dogs ONLY) or Pyrethrin, ivermectin (off-label use*)
Condition : Skin Fold Dermatitis
Description : Occurs where folds of skin touch each other such as lips, vulva, face (in breeds like bulldogs)
Symptoms : Redness, oozing, itching
Diagnosis : Physical exam; microscopically examine smear for evidence of infection
Treatment : Treat any infections; clean areas daily; surgical correction if severe
Condition : Hookworms
Description : Infection with the larvae (immature forms) of hookworms
Symptoms : Red bumps, usually on feet, rough foot pads, abnormal nail growth, itching
Diagnosis : Physical exam, history of poor sanitation
Treatment : Treat for intestinal infection; move animal to different environment
Condition : Neurodermatitis:
Acral Lick Dermatitis
(Dogs)
Psychogenic Dermatitis
(Cats)
Description : Self-licking in dogs and cats results in self-trauma; possible causes include anxiety, boredom, stress (e.g., new member in household)
Symptoms : Acral Lick: red, hairless, well-circumscribed lesion usually on forearm; cats: symmetrical hair loss, sometimes ulcers, on abdomen, groin, along the back
Diagnosis : Exclude other causes; history important
Treatment : Relieve underlying cause e.g., anxiety;
Condition : Bacterial Infection
Description : Often occurs as a result of another condition
Symptoms : Redness, pustules, bumps, sometimes itching
Diagnosis : Microscopic examination of smear; culture
Treatment : Treat underlying condition; topical and/or oral antibiotics
Condition : Ear Mites
Description : Infection with Otodectes
Symptoms : Intense itching of ears, redness, dark crumbly discharge in ears
Diagnosis : Direct visual or microscopic examination of ear discharge
Treatment : Clean ears and apply medication containing pyrethrin (Ear Miticide)
Condition : Pelodera Dermatitis
Description : Accidental infection with larvae from a non-parasitic worm that lives in straw and other organic material
Symptoms : Intense itching, redness
Diagnosis : Skin scraping and microscopic examination
Treatment : Remove bedding; mild antibacterial shampoo; steroids if necessary to control itching
Condition : Chiggers (Harvest mites)
Description : Seasonal disease caused by larvae of the chigger
Symptoms : Itching, bumps usually on feet, abdomen, folds at base of ears
Diagnosis : Visualization of mite larvae or microscopic examination of skin scraping
Treatment : Permethrin (Dogs ONLY) or Pyrethrin
Thanks to All About Dogs for this wonderful article!!
Causes
- Staphylococci (‘Staph bacteria’) are the most common organisms found in bacterial skin diseases (pyoderma's) in dogs. Fortunately, these bacteria (S. intermedius) are not contagious to humans or other pets.
Signs
- Commonly itchy, yellow pustules are often observed early in the disease, and the dog’s skin can be reddened and ulcerated. Dry, crusted areas appear as the condition advances, along with loss of hair in the affected areas (lesions) and an odour.
All areas of a dog’s body may be involved, but most cases are confined to the trunk. The chin is one area commonly affected. Called chin acne, this condition is actually a deep bacterial infection. Obese dogs and dogs of the pug-nosed breeds are frequently affected by pyoderma in the skin folds on their face, lips and vulva.
Other areas where pyoderma may occur include between the toes and on the calluses of the elbows that mostly affects the abdominal area in young puppies.
Diagnosis
- This is usually made from the case history and appearance and location of the lesions. In some cases, it may be necessary to culture the skin (grow the bacteria) and conduct sensitivity tests to determine which antibiotic will be effective in treatment. Most bacterial skin infections in dogs are secondary to another disease such as parasitism, allergies, endocrine (hormonal) disorders or abnormalities in the immune system. Therefore, in recurrent cases, it is important to search for underlying causes. It may be necessary to do blood tests, allergy tests or skin biopsies to achieve a complete diagnosis.
Treatment
- Initial treatments may entail removal of the hair in and around the lesions, washing of the whole dog with antibiotic shampoos such as benzoyl peroxide, careful drying and the application of an antibiotic ointment to local lesions, in most cases, antibiotics will also be administered orally for 3-4 weeks. Bandages or a protective collar which prevents the dog from mutilating the lesions may be applied.
Some pyoderma involving skin folds can require corrective surgery. In recurrent cases where testing reveals no definable underlying cause, special staphylococcal vaccines as an alternative to long-term antibiotic treatment can be tried.
It may be necessary to continue treatments such as antiseptic shampooing, antibiotic ointment applications and giving antibiotics orally at home. While most cases respond to treatment, recurrences of pyoderma are common, particularly if treatment recommendations and follow-up visits to your veterinarian are neglected. Glucocorticoid steroids cannot be administered.
Fungal Skin Infections (Ringworm)
Cause
- The fungal skin infections of dogs are caused primarily be two species of fungi: Microsporum and Trichophyton. The skin diseases resulting from these fungi are commonly called ‘ringworm.’
Signs
- Ringworm is seen most commonly in young dogs. The fungi live in dead skin tissues, hairs and nails. Hair loss, usually in circular patches, may appear. If infected, the center of the patches may have a dry, crusty appearance. The head and legs are most commonly affected by ringworm, although the disease may spread over other parts of the dog’s body if not treated. Dogs may scratch the lesions.
Diagnosis
- The appearance of the lesions, the history of their development and the age of the dog are all helpful in diagnosing ringworm. A Wood’s Lamp Test (ultraviolet light) can be used to help diagnose the Microsporum species only. A definite diagnosis can be obtained through a fungal culture -- grow the fungi found on the affected hairs.
Treatment
- The hair around the lesions is clipped, and special fungicidal shampoos or rinses are used for bathing the dog. Topical lime sulfur and mandatory systemics should be administered.
Public Health Aspects of Ringworm - Ringworm is contagious to humans, particularly to children and to other household pets. Infected dogs should be kept away from children and other dogs and cats until the infection is cures -- which can be as long as 2-3 months or more after the treatment begins. Adults should be careful to wash their hands thoroughly after handling an infected dog. If treated early, ringworm is readily controlled in humans. Other household pets should also be examined for ringworm.
Allergic Skin Diseases
Allergies in dogs are common. Signs such as itchy skin, nasal and eye discharges and sneezing, and/or digestive upsets and/or skin lesions may indicate an allergy is present. Many skin diseases seen in dogs are caused by an allergy.
Causes
- An allergy is a hypersensitivity reaction to allergy-causing substances known as ‘allergens’ or ‘antigens.’ Dogs (like people) can develop allergies at any age, and the signs can appear quite suddenly.
The most common allergy dogs develop is the flea saliva. The presence of a single flea on these allergic dogs causes intense itching. These allergies are seasonal in climate zones where fleas are eliminated by the cold in winter months -- and a year-round problem in warmer climates.
Atopy (atopic dermatitis, allergic inhalant dermatitis) is a pruritic (itchy) skin disease dogs develop in response to inhaled particles such as house dust, molds and pollens. This common form of allergy usually starts at a relatively young age. Rarely, dogs can be allergic to chemicals contained in soaps, waxes, carpets and flea collars. This type of hypersensitivity is known as a ‘contact allergy.’ Also, some dogs are allergic to insect bites and stings. Food allergies usually case diarrhea and/or skin lesions.
Signs
- Itching is the primary sign of allergic skin diseases in dogs. The affected skin may appear normal, or red and moist in patches called ‘hot spots.’ Pus and dried crusts are apparent if a bacterial infection is also present. The dog tends to constantly scratch and lick affected areas. Initially, flea allergies are most evident over the dog’s back and near the tail. A dog’s face, feet, chest, and abdomen are more often affected by pollen and dust-type allergies. Contact allergies are seen mostly on the hairless areas of the abdomen and on the bottoms of the feet.
Diagnosis
- The dog’s case history helps with the diagnosis. The intense itching and location of the lesions are also helpful in diagnosing the type of allergy present. Response to treatment (flea control) is often used as a method of diagnosis of flea allergy. Trials of special hypoallergenic diets are used to diagnose food allergy. Allergy testing is used to help choose immunotherapy. Blood tests are also available to diagnose allergies, but their use is more controversial. Ask your veterinarian for his or her current recommendations.
Treatment
- Allergies can be controlled in most cases, with few ‘cured.’ Antihistamines and corticosteroids may be used by your veterinarian to give your dog relief from the intense itching. In most cases this will stop the self-mutilation. The owner will be instructed to give corticosteroid tablets in decreasing dosages for a few months. Corticosteroids are potent drugs and should not be used carelessly or for long periods of time. The main objective in controlling flea allergies in dogs is to kill the fleas on the dog and in the dog’s environment.
Another approach to allergy control is hyposensitization (immunotherapy). In this procedure, a correct diagnosis by intradermal or blood testing is necessary. The dog is then given injections of small but increasing doses of the allergy-causing substance at varying intervals for up to 12 months. Lifelong response may take up to 12 months.
Parasitic Skin Diseases
Cause
- Fleas are the most common parasitic skin disease found in dogs. Mange is another type of skin disease which is caused by mites. There are two severe types of mange: sarcoptic mange and demodectic mange.
- Ear mites, lice, and ticks are other parasites that affect dogs. Their presence irritates the dog, leading to self-mutilation.
Signs
- Sarcoptic mange causes intense itching, loss of hair and crusting of the skin. A dog’s ears, front legs, chest and abdomen are most often affected by sarcoptic mange.
- Demodectic mange can cause itching. The skin is reddened and scaly, and hair loss occurs in round patches resembling ‘ringworm.’ The face and front legs are most commonly affected, although some cases may be generalized. Generalized demodectic mange is often a sign of underlying internal disease or a hereditary problem.
- Ear mites cause severe irritation in the ears. Often, an affected dog will scratch the hair off the back of its ears. Ticks, lice and fleas may transmit other diseases, in addition to causing irritation.
Diagnosis
- Mange is often suspected on the basis of the case history and the appearance and location of the lesions. A skin scraping test is always performed to aid in identifying parasites. Ear mites, which are barely visible to the naked eye, appear as small white objects. The black debris commonly seen in the ears of dogs with ear mites is a combination of dried blood, normal ear wax and discharges from inflammation. Lice, fleas and ticks can also be seen by close examination of the dog’s skin.
Treatment
- Mange is treated by clipping the affected areas and washing them with an antiseptic. Antimite dips are often necessary and may be used weekly or biweekly for several months. Shampoos can be sued before each dip. The dog’s eyes should be protected with mineral oil or eye ointment and the ears plugged with cotton before dipping. Most cases of mange respond well to this treatment. Antibiotics can be administered in cases of mange where infection may be present.
Ear mites can be readily treated Initially, your veterinarian may recommend a thorough cleaning of the dog’s ears while the animal is sedated. This treatment can be followed up with home treatments using special solutions or ointments to kill the mites and prevent infections in addition, insecticidal dips, sprays, powders or shampoos are often used.
Lice, ticks and fleas must be killed on the dog and in the dog’s environment with insecticides. Dips, shampoos, flea collars, sprays, powders, foams and foggers containing insecticides are available from your veterinarian to help control these parasites.
Hormonal Skin Diseases
Skin diseases caused by hormonal abnormalities in dogs are difficult to diagnose. The thyroid gland, adrenal glands, pituitary gland, testicles and ovaries all produce hormones. If excessive (‘hyper’) or deficient (‘hypo’), these hormones produce changes in the skin and hair coat. Most hormonal problems that affect the skin produce hair loss that is evenly distributed on each side of the dog’s body. The skin may be thicker or thinner than normal, and there may be changes in the color of the skin or hair coat. These diseases usually are not itchy.
When any of the hormone-producing glands malfunction, they affect other body functions besides the skin. Hormonal skin diseases in dogs can be much more serious than a ‘skin problem.’
Some causes of hormonal skin disease, such as hypothyroidism and adrenal gland problems, can be diagnosed by special blood tests and effectively treated. Others may be more difficult to diagnose and treat. Skin changes related to the sex hormones can be successfully treated with surgical neutering, if this has not been performed previously.
Condition : Atopy (Allergic Inhalant Dermatitis)
Description : Allergic reaction by the animal to something it inhales such as pollen, house dust mites and mould
Symptoms : Licking of feet, inflamed ears, itching, redness, sometimes development of infection or hot spots
Diagnosis : Intradermal or serologic (blood) testing for allergies
Treatment : Reduce exposure to allergen (what the pet is allergic to), shampoos, fatty acid supplements, steroids, antihistamines, immunotherapy
Condition : Food Allergies
Description : Allergic reaction to something in the diet
Symptoms : Licking of feet, inflamed ears, itching, redness, sometimes development of infection or hot spots
Diagnosis : Food elimination trials
Treatment : Change in diet
Condition : Allergic and Irritant (Contact Dermatitis)
Description : Reaction of the pet's skin to something it had contact with such as wool or plastics
Symptoms : Red skin and small bumps or blisters on the areas of skin that are sparsely haired and directly exposed to the offending substance, itching
Diagnosis : Patch test, exclusion trials
Treatment : Restrict exposure to the allergen or contact irritant in the pet's environment, steroids, antihistamines
Condition : Flea Allergy Dermatitis (Flea Bite Hypersensitivity)
Description : Severe reaction by the animal to the saliva of the flea
Symptoms : Intense itching, redness, hair loss; sometimes development of infection or hot spots
Diagnosis : Presence of fleas; reaction to intradermal testing
Treatment : Flea Control in the environment and on the pet; steroids and antihistamines for the itching
Condition : Sarcoptic Mange
Description : Infection with the Sarcoptes mite
Symptoms : Intense itching and self-trauma
Diagnosis : Skin scraping and microscopic examination - the mite is often very difficult to find
Treatment : Amitraz (Mitaban) dips (off-label use*); ivermectin (off-label use*)
Condition : Demodectic Mange in Dogs (Red Mange)
Description : Infection with the Demodex mite - occurs when the immune system is deficient
Symptoms : Hair loss, scaliness, redness, pustules, ulcers, sometimes itching
Diagnosis : Skin scraping and microscopic examination
NO Steroids!
Treatment : Amitraz (Mitaban) dips
Condition : Cheyletiella (Rabbit Fur Mite) Mange
Description : Infection with the Cheyletiella mite
Symptoms : Itching, scaliness
Diagnosis : Skin scraping and microscopic examination - the mite is often very difficult to find
Treatment : Permethrin (Dogs ONLY) or Pyrethrin
Condition : Ringworm
Description : Infection with several types of fungus
Symptoms : Hair loss, scaliness, crusty areas, some itching
Diagnosis : Culture
Treatment : Miconazole, lime sulfur dips; oral griseofulvin or itraconazole
Condition : Yeast Infection
Description : Infection with, most commonly, Malassezia; usually follows some other underlying disease
Symptoms : Itching, redness, sometimes oiliness
Diagnosis : Skin scraping/smear and microscopic examination, culture
Treatment : Treat underlying disease; oral ketoconazole; miconazole shampoos
Condition : Hot Spots: Acute Moist Dermatitis
Description : Result from allergies, flea bites, mange, anal gland disease, poor grooming, ear infections, plant awns or burs, arthritis
Symptoms : Hair loss; red, moist, oozing skin; constant licking or scratching
Diagnosis : Physical exam and history
Treatment : Treat underlying condition; clean area; apply Domeboro solution; topical and/or oral antibiotics and steroids
Condition : Cutaneous Lymphoma
Description : Rare type of skin cancer
Symptoms : Itching, ulcers, nodules, redness
Diagnosis : Biopsy
Treatment : Usually does not respond to treatment
Condition : Lice
Description : Infection with several species of lice
Symptoms : Variable; itching, hair loss, crusts, rough hair coat
Diagnosis : Finding lice or nits on skin or hair
Treatment : Permethrin (Dogs ONLY) or Pyrethrin, ivermectin (off-label use*)
Condition : Skin Fold Dermatitis
Description : Occurs where folds of skin touch each other such as lips, vulva, face (in breeds like bulldogs)
Symptoms : Redness, oozing, itching
Diagnosis : Physical exam; microscopically examine smear for evidence of infection
Treatment : Treat any infections; clean areas daily; surgical correction if severe
Condition : Hookworms
Description : Infection with the larvae (immature forms) of hookworms
Symptoms : Red bumps, usually on feet, rough foot pads, abnormal nail growth, itching
Diagnosis : Physical exam, history of poor sanitation
Treatment : Treat for intestinal infection; move animal to different environment
Condition : Neurodermatitis:
Acral Lick Dermatitis
(Dogs)
Psychogenic Dermatitis
(Cats)
Description : Self-licking in dogs and cats results in self-trauma; possible causes include anxiety, boredom, stress (e.g., new member in household)
Symptoms : Acral Lick: red, hairless, well-circumscribed lesion usually on forearm; cats: symmetrical hair loss, sometimes ulcers, on abdomen, groin, along the back
Diagnosis : Exclude other causes; history important
Treatment : Relieve underlying cause e.g., anxiety;
Condition : Bacterial Infection
Description : Often occurs as a result of another condition
Symptoms : Redness, pustules, bumps, sometimes itching
Diagnosis : Microscopic examination of smear; culture
Treatment : Treat underlying condition; topical and/or oral antibiotics
Condition : Ear Mites
Description : Infection with Otodectes
Symptoms : Intense itching of ears, redness, dark crumbly discharge in ears
Diagnosis : Direct visual or microscopic examination of ear discharge
Treatment : Clean ears and apply medication containing pyrethrin (Ear Miticide)
Condition : Pelodera Dermatitis
Description : Accidental infection with larvae from a non-parasitic worm that lives in straw and other organic material
Symptoms : Intense itching, redness
Diagnosis : Skin scraping and microscopic examination
Treatment : Remove bedding; mild antibacterial shampoo; steroids if necessary to control itching
Condition : Chiggers (Harvest mites)
Description : Seasonal disease caused by larvae of the chigger
Symptoms : Itching, bumps usually on feet, abdomen, folds at base of ears
Diagnosis : Visualization of mite larvae or microscopic examination of skin scraping
Treatment : Permethrin (Dogs ONLY) or Pyrethrin
Thanks to All About Dogs for this wonderful article!!
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